Why Your Faucet Drips: Causes & How to Fix It
Why does my faucet keep dripping and how do I stop it?
A dripping faucet almost always means a worn internal part (a washer, O-ring, or cartridge) has hardened or torn and no longer seals. Most fixes are a cheap, 30-to-60-minute DIY repair once you shut off the water.
ℹ️ Reference only: For general reference only: AI-assisted and not professional advice. This guide guarantees no result; every situation differs. Verify against the manufacturer, local codes, and a licensed professional before acting, especially for electrical, gas, fuel, plumbing, structural, or roof work. Use at your own risk.
Common causes
- Worn-out cartridge (most common on single-handle and many modern faucets). The plastic/brass cartridge that controls flow wears or cracks and stops sealing. (most common) Quick check: Single lever or modern two-handle faucet that drips no matter how hard you turn it off: points to the cartridge.
- Worn rubber washer or seat (classic compression faucet, common in older homes). The washer gets compressed and brittle from being pressed against the valve seat. (common) Quick check: Two separate hot/cold handles you have to twist hard to shut. If the spout drips with only one handle's water on, that side's washer is the likely culprit, but check both, since either can feed the same spout.
- Damaged or hardened O-rings. Small rubber rings dry out and crack, causing drips at the spout or leaks around the handle base. (common) Quick check: Water seeping around the handle or base when you turn it on, in addition to or instead of a spout drip.
- Corroded or pitted valve seat. Mineral buildup and corrosion roughen the seat so a new washer still won't seal. (less common) Quick check: You replaced the washer and it still drips: the seat itself is rough. Probe gently inside with a fingertip; it feels gritty or pitted.
- High water pressure or water hammer. Pressure above ~80 psi can stress seals and cause intermittent dripping, especially at night when overall demand is low. (less common) Quick check: Multiple faucets drip, or drips come and go. Test with a ~$10-15 hose-bib pressure gauge: a steady reading over 80 psi points here.
- Worn rubber seals/springs in a ball-type faucet (older single-handle Delta-style). The seats and springs under the ball wear out. (less common) Quick check: Single-handle faucet with a rounded ball cap under the lever that drips from the spout.
How to fix it
- Shut off the water first. Turn the two shutoff valves under the sink clockwise until snug; if there are none or they don't fully stop the flow, shut off the main. Open the faucet to drain pressure and plug the drain so small parts can't fall in.
- Identify your faucet type: compression (two handles you twist hard), cartridge (single or two-handle that turns smoothly ~90 degrees), ball (single handle with a rounded cap), or ceramic-disc. The repair part depends on this.
- Pop off the decorative handle cap with a flathead, remove the handle screw, and pull the handle. Take a photo at each step so reassembly is easy.
- For a compression faucet: unscrew the packing nut, lift out the stem, and replace the rubber washer at the bottom and the O-ring on the stem. Bring the old parts to the hardware store to match size.
- For a cartridge faucet: remove the retaining clip/nut, pull the cartridge straight out with pliers (or a brand-specific puller), and drop in an identical replacement. Match the brand and model: Moen, Delta, Kohler, etc. each differ.
- For a ball or ceramic-disc faucet: buy the manufacturer's repair kit (springs/seats for ball, or seals for disc) and swap the worn parts following the kit diagram.
- While it's apart, clean mineral buildup off metal parts with white vinegar and a rag. Lightly coat new O-rings with plumber's silicone grease, never petroleum jelly, which degrades rubber.
- If a new washer still drips, the valve seat is bad. Smooth it with an inexpensive seat-dressing/reseating tool, or replace the seat if it unscrews.
- Reassemble in reverse, turn the water back on slowly, and run the faucet to check for drips and base leaks. Snug any connection that weeps; don't overtighten.
- If the whole faucet is corroded or parts are discontinued, replacing the entire faucet (fixture often $40-$200) is usually smarter than chasing repairs.
DIY or call a pro?
A standard washer, O-ring, or cartridge swap is well within reach for a careful homeowner with basic tools; this is one of the most beginner-friendly plumbing repairs. Call a licensed plumber if: the shutoff valves are seized or leak when you touch them, the faucet body or valve seat is badly corroded, you have to repair from inside the wall (tub/shower valves behind tile), you suspect a whole-house pressure problem needing a pressure-reducing valve, or you simply can't get a clean seal after replacing parts.
Tools & parts
- Adjustable wrench
- Slip-joint or channel-lock pliers
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Allen/hex key set (for set screws)
- Replacement washers, O-rings, or brand-matched cartridge/repair kit
- Plumber's silicone grease
- White vinegar for descaling
- Rag and small bowl for parts
- Cartridge puller and seat-dressing tool (only if needed)
Keep a record of every fix you make: what broke, what it cost, how you solved it.
Track your home's fixes in Home Story →Based on: Manufacturer repair guidance (Moen, Delta, Kohler cartridge/washer documentation); Reputable DIY references (This Old House, Family Handyman, Bob Vila in spirit); Plumbing-code water-pressure norm (≤80 psi, per IPC/UPC)
General home-maintenance guidance, not professional plumbing advice. Faucet designs and local codes vary; when in doubt or when shutoffs/valve bodies are compromised, consult a licensed plumber. Information here is general reference only and may be estimated or AI-assisted. It is not professional advice. Verify with a qualified professional before acting, and use it at your own risk. See our Terms & Disclaimer.